We arrived in Val D'Isere after an amazing drive up from Gruissan in the South of France.
I can't say I wasn't well rested anyway, the past week was spent relaxing on the beach with a couple of short runs thrown in in the searing heat to get to know the local area. Of course a few beers and even more wine everyday was mandatory.
I had the best carb loading preparation you could ask for. Val D'Isere itself is quite small and is a well renowned Ski resort. In the summer not much really goes on bar some hiking so it was pretty quite around. You could tell everyone in town was there for the race. We found registration quite easily and after I nodded at some race instructions in French (which Anna kindly translated after) I had my race number. We had a quick inspection of the course on a large map hung up on the wall and started to get very excited!
The weather was promised perfect, clear skies and plenty of sunshine! Excellent!
We went for a quick stroll around the beautiful Val D'Isere and got our bearings.
Plenty of fancy shops with the top brands, everything was ridiculously expensive. Val D'Isere doesn't look cheap! A real erie place in the summer with what appeared to be christmas lights still on the trees and ski stands dotted around everywhere, all this in the middle of the summer heat! It was hard to imagine it covered in snow. The mandatory race briefing was at 5pm so we plonked ourselves down and waited to listen intently.
The race briefing began but I forgot we were in France and I couldn't understand a word. Anna again had to translate, then an English translator summarized what the first guy had just said. The worrying part was the French guy went on for 20mins about some important aspect of the races and the English translator always managed to summarize it with a couple of lines "lots of snow", "cold winter", "Yak Trax" and "mandatory gear", I wondered what we were missing, I need to brush up on my French for next time, I felt very ignorant. Then the announcement came that 60% of the course was in snow! I gasped along with everyone around me! Well my gasp was a little delayed, Anna had to explain first, then I gasped by myself. Just 24hrs previous my main problem was keeping sand out of my pants on the beach! This was going to be interesting to say the least! Part of the mandatory kit were Yak Trax, these slipped on over the shoes to provide extra grip on the ice. The first climb and the biggest of the whole race was up a glacier so some sort of grip on the ice was compulsory. Anna's parents kindly donated theirs for our use so that was handy. Kilian Jornet and Dachhiri Sherpa who were a couple of the race favorites also said a word and then that was it, see you at 3am!
We found the local Spar for some food to cook in the camper and for some supplies for the race, I had a feeling the aid stations were going to be well stocked so I didn't get much, a few oat bars and some jellies. We spotted a car park with other campers parked up only a few mins down the road so got a nice spot there and relaxed while cooking up some grub as the sun went down.
Just before bed we sorted out what we'd need for our respective adventures. Anna was booked onto the hiking event which was 15km in length and went to one of the highest points in the whole course, the Col des Fours, almost 3000 m. It looked like a very nice route too and I knew she was in for a treat. The routes were overlapping on some sections so there was a chance we might bump into each other. Lights out at 10pm and we were just drifting off to sleep when there were loud cracks of...thunder?! It can't be, then opened up the window and saw they had fireworks for the Bastille day celebrations, pretty nice lying in the camper with the curtain pulled watching the fireworks for 10mins. Then off to blanket street.
Alarm set for 2:30 which is such an awful time to get up but when I knew what was ahead for the next few hours I wasn't long hopping up. Gear was ready to go so just had to throw it all on and pop outside the door for a quick number 1. Anna kindly reminds me after the race that it was too close to the camper again. I must work on that.
Strolled up to the race start with the aid of the headtorch and grabbed some breakfast at the race HQ. Nice touch, help yourself to pastries, bread, cheese, jam, cereal, the works!
The French take their food very seriously, I was already looking forward to the first aid station! At 3:30 it was time to stroll down to race start, surreal seeing nearly 500 people with head torches lining up for a race. I joined the end of the queue which eventually had me somewhere in the middle of the nervous pack.
A few words from the race director and we were off! The path quickly narrowed as it turned up for the first climb. This slowed everyone down to a walk and a full on dead stop for some parts. Quite frustrating to hear the start gun go and then your stopped so soon. I didn't really like this part of the course, too many people around and too much hustle and bustle. Running in the Alps isn't meant to be like this! But to be fair, what can you expect, it was only the race start! Eventually everyone got into a nice uphill rhythm with some people skipping past to try get up the hill faster. I didn't see much point this soon so I just took it nice and easy and hiked up the hill and the same pace as most people. Taking a few shots with the camera along the way but it was too dark.
Reaching the first summit just before Tignes it was getting a little brighter.
Then a loverly downhill section into Tignes and we were skipping past Tignes at around the same time as a few people seemed to be staggering home after their own endurance events, Tignes nightclub. In fairness though, they gave great support at 5am! Through Tignes and ahead of us was one huge climb. The Grand Motte. Onwards and upwards. Head down and slowed to a fast hike we powered up. Hands on knees stuff with a few flatter sections on the trail where you could pick it up to a jog again. There were poles everywhere! Everyone had a least two, I didn't even have one. I hadn't practiced with them at all in Connemara, I didn't like the idea of carrying them around to be honest and decided they weren't for me. I had enough to be worrying about! If I ever get competitive at these kind of races I might consider them, for now my legs alone will do!
As we climbed, the snow and Grand Motte glacier came into view. At the foot of the glacier a small group had formed, here you got a chance to put on your manditory Yak Traks.
This was my first time even putting them on my shoes but they take no getting used to and were a huge help on the icy patches. A few hundred meters more of climbing had us reach the first aid station at 3032 m!
In good spirits I gorged myself on all the lovely treats, cake, cheese, bread, tuck crackers (I must remember to use these again, great source of energy and salt that went down very well!). It was getting cooler up this high and put back on my jacket even though there was a huge climb up the glacier to the summit ahead. Onwards we all went in our drips and drabs. All of a sudden we see something up ahead flying at a ferocious pace down the ice, Kilian of course, flat out as usual, amazing to actually see in real life. At this stage, 2hrs into the race he was probaby already 1 hr ahead, unreal. So much for my chance to race him! ;-)
Coming closer to the summit, people were well spaced out at this stage, everyone finding their own comfortable pace and plenty of room for overtaking.
Reaching the safety zone, there was only a few hundred more meters to go to the summit. In the "safety zone" you had to stay single file and weren't alowed to overtake anyone, you didn't have much chance anyway, stray a step or two in the wrong direction would mean a very nice fall.
There was a single track carved out in the ice and snow to get safely up to the summit and down the other side. The heights were pretty dizzying but gradually you got used to it, this was a far cry from Connemara. Close on 3600m up at this stage scurrying up a bit of rock on all fours using a rope for stability on some parts, everyone took this really easy.
Then it was one of the best summit feelings I've ever had, what a view! 3650m above sea level, about 24hrs previous I was just leaving the Mediterranean coast!
That was short lived though, I'm only about 8km into the race! Altitude sickness-wise I wasn't too out of breath or anything, the pace going up was very easy but I had a splitting headache which initially I though was dehydration but as I climbed it was definitely getting worse so it was obviously all part of the altitude effects I was expecting to have. Waiting around on the summit is the worst thing you can do for it so straight back down we went, all be it very slowly initially.
For the first time in a long time I was able to stretch out the legs for a run again, and what fun running down snow is! At first I was slipping everywhere being too cautious and tensing up too much so I just let gravity do its thing and hoped the legs would follow fast enough. My logic was that if I turn my legs over fast enough, a slip on the ice/snow with one leg would mean the other leg will be able to correct it fast enough and I should keep upright. It worked!...well to a certain extent anyway, I got a little cocky and went flying past a nice few people. What I didn't expect was knee deep snow. My "quick leg turnover" was little help. I saw it but it was too late. Face planted into the snow and skidded, rolled over onto my back then managed to dig in the feet again up I popped mid canter. I looked around to see if anyone else witness my amazing acrobatic display but they were all too busy trying to keep themselves upright. Some people just gave in and slid down the snow on their arse's. It was too cold for that crack, pun intended. Before we knew it the snow had disappeared again and we were running on a wonderfully amazing trail down to the next aid station.
That was one long descent and the legs were already feeling it. So much fun though! Stopped here for a bit to take a breather a soak up the views which taking on some tasty fuel, I went for chocolate, oranges and some dried apricots this time washed down with some warm noodle soup, this is the life!
Onward towards the next climb, a bit slower this time, stomach was trying to deal with a lot in one go so had to give it a chance. I wasn't going to go hungry anyway.
Details are pretty sketchy from here. but we got to snow pretty fast again and had to cross a few streams so feet were very cold for a while.
A lot of the snow was very run-able but every now and again it'd surprise you with a knee deep hole and you'd have to think quick to correct yourself. Then as we descended down another trail were started to come into Vanoise National Park, the pics tell it all really, rolling green hills dotted with Alpine cows that make their tasty local cheeses. It was bliss!
I had been wearing thermals for the glacier bit but stopped up here and changed into shorts and t-shirt, it was hotting up now the more we descended into the valley.
It started to climb again and I was finding it tough at this stage, the climb had us back into snow and ice but it was a lot softer this time and really sapped out the energy. The climb got steeper and steep and still no sign of the summit. Man this is tough I was thinking. headache was starting to act up again too. A few sups of water and kept the head down, hands on legs hiking up the never ending climb.
Eventually up ahead the line of runners was getting more bunched so it was obvious we were approaching another summit, thank god. Eventually got to the top and just sat down for a bit. Eventually got some of my breath back and looked down over the edge to see the most amazing, green colored lake in the snow.
I didn't feel so bad anymore and picked myself up and stared to job down the icy slope again. Again this snow was very soft and slippery so it was a real struggle. Just leaned forward and let the legs do their thing to carry me all the way down to the next aid station. I was pooped. Sat down here and just looked around. It was actually the prettiest of the aid stations with the most helpful people.
I took on plenty of water and some fruit, tuc crackers, coke, and a powder isotonic drink thing which I regretted immediately, I knew I'd need some type of electrolytes though.
I sat here for longer again and looked around. A lot of people were really feeling it a this stage. This is probably over half way but effort wise we had two huge climbs to >3000m to come. This was going to mean more headaches and pain. Did I want to do another two I though to myself? This was the first time in a race I thought I'd be happy to just finish it here, the day has already been amazing and did I really need to do another two huge climbs, I could just get a lift back down in the cable car from here...snap out of it, of course I want to finish!! Up I hopped and said I'd give it one more mountain anyway and re-asses at the next aid station. The legs were still working fine all-be-it a little tired so onwards and upwards, again!
On the climb we reached more snow again, this time it didn't feel as bad as before and was able to hike away up without too much bother, the views were, as always, stunning so that took my mind off what was still to come. Reaching the top of this second last big climb I sat down again on the summit and decided, yep, I'm finishing this.
Took a breather, a few photo's to make me look busy (and use it as an excuse to rest) then down the other side and down the slippery, icy single track slope that had a pretty serious drop off to our right. Didn't want to slip here so everyone took it real easy.
Eventually the snow disappeared again and we ran down to what looked like another aid station but was only a group of people cheering us on, great for the support but the route took a turn for the worse and were were to switch to a road for a couple of KM's up to the next aid station. So on we went along Europe's highest paved road (I learned after) to the next aid station. With one final huge climb to 3300 m to come, everyone seemed a little nervous but in good spirits that this was the final big one. So took on more tasty treats from the aid station and onwards up the mountain. Didn't feel great at the start of the climb (possible eating too much again) and took out the camera for an excuse to rest.
Eventually after a bit of a personal motivation speech in my head, I hopped up, hopped might be a bit optimistic, and faced the final big one. Head ache was starting again, here we go. This climb went on forever, near the top there were plenty of "false peaks", very disheartening after all that went before. A lot of this peak was broken shale rock causing you to take two steps forward, one step back so this part felt like an eternity. Eventually reaching the top of this wretched, beautiful mountain, and with a few cheers from the race marshalls, I sat myself down and soaked up the atmosphere.
And as much oxygen as I could get, headache was quite bad now and it seemed to be getting worse so eventually I got up off my lazy ass and back on the snow for some great downhill snow running again, I was really beginning to enjoy the downhill snow bits, if you fell, it didn't matter! The more you accepted that, the less you fell!
Eventually down to the final aid station with everyone in high spirits. Didn't wait around here too much, felt actually quite good, bar the sunburn. I had forgot to mention but my legs, arms, back of neck, were getting quite warm at this stage. About half way around the race, after stripping down to shorts and t-shirt I realized in all my haste, I forgot sun-cream What a mistake. I already had a serious burn line from my shorts so I ended up covering up as much as possible, long sleeve top, gloves, buff around the neck to limit the damage. It was very hot at this stage too but I decided I needed to save some layers of skin. I couldn't bring myself to put back on thermal leggings, so I kept it to just the shorts and accepted the fact I'll need an industrial size bottle of after sun when I finished.
Onwards for the final "little climb" of a few hundred meters. This brought us up to an interesting part of the course where there was a tunnel near the summit bringing you to the other side.
Running though the tunnel was a great feeling, at the end of the tunnel you could clearly see Grand Motte from earlier in the day way way off in the distance. Stopped up here to take in what we had just been though since summiting Grand Motte, what felt like days ago.
It was all downhill from here so to my delight, another section of downhill snow running and then a nice grassy trail bringing you all the way down into Val D'Isere, needless to say I really enjoyed this section!
Legs were in bits but it didn't matter, I had done it! I started the race at 4am and crossed the finish line just before 6pm after a very long but amazing 13:51:52 adventure. Notice all my thermals and gloves in the photo, it was roasting!
Chatted with Anna about her day and couldn't believe she'd waited around for me to finish, legend! Grabbed some water, more cake and my well earned "Ice Trail Tarentaise" thermal top and off we went to use the free pool voucher in the local sports centre, straight into the jacuzzi, ahhhhhhhh.....
In all it was a great event, I had though around 12hrs was possible judging by last years results but found it a little tougher than expected. There were times where I would've pushed harder but I was enjoying the scenery too much. The alps were a great new experience for me and doing loops of the Glencoaghen Horseshoe in Connemara was a great help. In all the mountains I've been on around Ireland, they are the most "alpine-esque", about 3000m lower though! Running down the scree slope off Benbreen was very similar to running downhill on snow so that actually proved very beneficial, and great fun! The biggest help for this race was all the hiking I had done. It's hard to class that race as an Ultra-run to be honest, more like an Ultra-hike. I hiked up everything and then jogged the flat and downhill sections. The altitude wasn't as bad as I had thought it was going to be. I had got pretty bad headaches every time I went about ~2900m but never felt too out of breath. I suppose I was never really pushing myself too much so that why I didn't notice it. It'd be interesting to run a road race on that 2770 m road, you'd have a very different 5km time I'd imagine!
Kilian Jornet as expected, broke the course record in 7hrs 35mins, later on in an interview he refers to it as a long training run, unbelievable, it really puts it into perspective as to what those guys get up to.
How I would love to live in the Alps for a summer season and just get out hiking/running every day. Living within an hour of Connemara isn't so bad either of course!
